The term ‘African food’ is often thrown back and forth in Mandarin as if to refer to some uniform, imaginatively exotic cuisine. Yet just as ‘Western food’ can’t possibly articulate the stark differences between fine French dining and an American burger, oversimplifying African culinary styles undermines their individual splendor.
Hence the mission of Kiki, the spunky founder of Abyssinia, who hopes to introduce local Chinese to the concept of eating with one’s hands while also satisfying the cultured palates of Ethiopians living in Guangzhou.
“It’s a brand-new experience for most Chinese who come in,” says Kiki, as a man seated nearby asks (somewhat desperately) for a spoon. “But most of our guests are Ethiopian. They crave tastes from back home, especially injera, which is hard to make in China.”
Injera, a spongy sourdough flatbread made from rare teff flour, serves as the foundation carbohydrate for the cuisine. Naturally gluten-free, injera is best known for its slightly sour flavor, which emerges during the fermentation process. The resulting dough is then baked into a large, flat pancake on an electric griddle or clay plate over fire.
At Abyssinia, guests can try authentic injera (RMB38) shipped directly from Ethiopia – courtesy of Kiki’s friends, who conveniently work for an airline. “I ask them to bring me back ingredients every time they fly there,” she laughs.
The sauce for doro wat (RMB98), a traditional chicken stew, and shiro (RMB18), a spicy chickpea dish, are also imported from abroad to ensure authenticity. Kiki alters the menu slightly every week, but staples like tibs (RMB68), key wat (RMB68) and salad tossed with raw green pepper and garlic dressing (RMB25) can be prepared upon request. Misir – a delicious mix of lentils and spices – and gomen – collard greens – will suit vegetarian guests (both RMB18). For a party of two, we’d recommend ordering at least four dishes in addition to the injera. Nix all utensils and let your hands be your cutlery.
A small selection of intriguing beverages adorn a shelf in the main dining room, including Liefmans Fruitesse (RMB35), Kaiserdom (RMB25) and three varieties of French wine (RMB98-128/bottle).
Abyssinia welcomes private parties, and groups of 30 can consider renting out the entire restaurant. Casual and homey, it resembles an apartment-turned-youth-hostel. Flashy occasions would best be held elsewhere.
After only a month in business and with little public promotion, Kiki’s cozy fourth-floor eatery was bustling when we stopped in on a Wednesday night. Such a niche cuisine may not go mainstream, but it will certainly hold its own against Xiaobei and Taojin competitors.
Price: Approx. RMB140
Who’s going: Injera-deprived Ethiopians, gluten-free zealots
Good for: An excuse to eat with your hands
// Listing.
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